|English Harbour view from Shirley Heights|
At Shirley Heights we revisited with Kathy&Brian our favourite rendezvous, an old fort ruin with stunning views, to watch the Antigua night fall, eat BBQ creole ribs, dancing with the stars to The Survivors. Gazing over cliffs & stonewalls out to sea and harbours, we see our sail routes from far islands while watching the sun go down with a glass of rum punch.
"All who wander are not lost".
|Barbuda LongBay Beach|
"Barbuda, Barbuda, Barbuda" is a yachties peaceful paradise, an endless pink tinged & white sand beach, large fish come out at night, you can swim ashore in turquoise shoal water to walk on 1000's of minutte shells. Magnificent. We crossed the beach & took a water taxi on the lagoon to town.
Codrington town was the family name of early settlers who leased the island from England for one fat sheep, bought slaves from Africa, had livestock and used it to hunt. After emancipation the barbudans stayed, cooperatively working and 2000 now hold their land communally, independence has led to to them resisting development and creating a marine reserve. No jet skis here!!!
|St Barths Harbour|
A black sleepy shark stared us in the yes while checking the anchor. We swam like scared water rats to the boat.
So why have the French and Dutch split STM's island of 76000 people in half including the lagoon we anchored in, have separate towns,
3 currencies, police, food and names of course?
We anchored for a week on the French(no mooring fees)side of the STM's lagoon, and took the dingy to each side. A case of mutual co-habitation or absurd nationalism... still they get along and locals accept different politics & leaders.No chance of amalgamations here when tourists from the US & both countries can fly into their Antilles daily.
|Scaping throught the french Bridge Sint Maarten|
|Grand Case St Marten|
Most days are 8am rises & breakfast on the back deck, listening to weather checks & radio schedules, before deciding to lower the dingy. YES we bought a WINCH BUDDY, right angled drill with a winch bit to raise the dingy, and haven't grinded since STM's. Our fitness is fading fast. When sailing it's a 7am rise to get going before the wind comes up and make anchor by 4pm.
|Road Bay Anguilla|
|Shoal Bay Anguilla|
Then car motoring to Shoal Bay on the Nth tip, we took a stroll to get our landlegs back. Sail fast and live slow
|Francene & Bruce Capacula Resort|
WYUNA is now heading Sth, after Laurie & Anne joined us captain Bruce helmed the passage to the 'brush with the clouds" islands, 20+Nms & active volcanoes, peaks hidden under clouds. We feel tiny, sailing along the coasts of massive limestone cliffs, dramatic stuff & just too steep for walking.
Weather isn't always favorable, it was no fun crossing to St Kitts from St Barth's 20 kns plus pointing 30 deg for 8 hrs and rain in patches, and no way to change course.
In Carib there is always a fort nearby.....
|Brimstone Hill Fortress|
We climbed the barrack steps built by slaves who were sold to the French & British, who then colluded to kill all the local caribs and fought on land/sea gruesome battles for no long term benifits. All to protect the sugarcane lands for their homelands.
Really a shocking history of colonization, slavery and emancipation.
For the first time we missed out destination. WYUNA resisted going to Antigua and pushed us east to Montserrat an active volcanoe with exclusion zones, to get in by nightfall. Winds were SE at 18-23knts, a tiring day, no seasickness on board but we had no time to go ashore and clear customs, so sailed the next morning to Antigua, again bashing into it all day long. Wish we'd never started our southern route.
The wind gods roar near volcanoes!
We've arrived back into a safe anchorage at Falmouth Harbour, returning to the hub of sailing, for Antigua Race Week and our first morning we watched the racers head out to compete, all sizes and classes.
We'll see how the caribs tack & jibe & party....., then go sth to Martinique to see some new places on the return legs, dive new walls too!
Soon time to celebrate the Taurean bdays on board. So hope to go to Calypso nights and walk the Dominica trails if time and winds permit.
We DO enjoy reading the email catch ups and knowing how our friends and family are going. Our IT access and Skype has been poor but we get emails so DO keep in touch.
Bruce & Gina